Climbing my 1st Mountain, Vallunaraju, Huaraz June 2012

Sunrise at Vallunaraju part of the Cordillera Blanca - I didn't take this!

Soon after my return from the Santa Cruz trek I decided it was time to climb my first mountain.  After dreaming about this endeavor for many years, I felt ready and inspired by being in Andes to experience the true alpine rush of summiting a mountain! Vallunaraju in the Cordillera Blanca mountain range.

The adventure began in Huaraz at the agency where I hired a guide and the gear I would need for the 2 day trip.  I hired a private guide because none of my friends here wanted to do this mountain a second time round and hiring a guide is imperative when climbing a mountain alone, but how I wish I could have shared the experience with someone I care about or love.  Renting sleeping bag, stove for cooking, crampons (sharp teethed bits that attach to hiking boots making it possible to hike on the glacier), ice axe, and a rope that would keep me attached to the guide (in case of falls or crevices) and we were ready to go.

Laguna at the beginning of our trek up into the valley

The valley where we hiked up to the moraine camp

Leaving very early in the morning by taxi to the trail head we began our long and tiring hike up the valley to the moraine camp.  The packs were really heavy because of the equipment we were carrying but we took it very slowly and steadily.  The slope up the side of the valley was steep and challenging, especially because of the altitude, however with some rests along the way we made it in about 2 hours.  A couple of climbers had already arrived at the moraine camp and following right behind us was a large group of tourists about to arrive making camp to ascent the mountain the following morning.  Edwin (my guide) and I decided it would be better to hike an additional 30 mins further up towards the glacier because it would give us a better head start for the morning ascent.  This was a good idea because I'm not a huge fan of lots of tourists and the idea of summiting with a group of strangers didn't inspire me one bit.  We made the camp on a huge rock slab, it was very hard and cold underneath but luckily I had a good inflatable ground mat to protect my kidneys from the glacial chill.  We were only meters away from the glacier, it was freezing cold and hot drinks and food were greatly appreciated that evening.  The altitude was 5,000 meters or thereabouts (can never get a clear answer from a local...even a guide LOL) which made it impossible to sleep.  Being so cold and desperate to sleep I just stayed in my sleeping bag, patiently waiting for 1:00am for when the alarm would go off and we would get ready to begin the slow hike up the mountain to the summit for sunrise.

Camping on a slab of granite at the glacier

The glacier close by to where we camped

View of Huaraz from the camp

After hitting the snooze button a couple of times, it was 1:30am and time to get up and at it.  Not feeling very hungry because of how early it was, I just drank a cup of coffee with milo and ate some mouthfuls of chaufa (fried rice with chicken).  I knew I would need the energy for the upcoming 4 hour climb to the summit but it turned my stomach to force food into myself so I abandoned the idea of eating because I have to! Off we went to the beginning of the glacier and there were 3 people already there before we arrived.  I was a tad disappointed because I'd hoped we'd be the first to start, my ego got plugged in.  A French couple with their guide and it was also their first time climbing a mountain.  Neither of the couple had a headlamp which we thought was a bit strange and off they went in front of us, the guide leading their way.  As we walked Edwin and I caught up with them and overtook them as they were moving much slower than us.  We continued along in the dark with the only light ahead was what the flashlight threw on the glistening snow.  The stars were amazing, so bright and twinkling like diamonds in the huge black sky.  The chill in the air and the wind howling through the hood of my jacket was intense.  Most of the glacier was covered in a nice fresh powdery snow from the night before and was soft under the crampons.  Some parts of the glacier were more steep than others and I had to use the ice axe on the more technical parts and also how I placed the crampons into the ice.  It was quite challenging at times but most of the accent was quite mellow and just walking with some gradient.  I was getting quite tired along the way and feeling really nauseous from the altitude which was very unusual because I'm usually good with altitude.  Stopping to rest along the way, I actually vomited but it helped me to feel much better (better out than in).  Must have been from the instant coffee and milo, what a gross way to start the day!


The pictures I've attached to this post were not taken by me but other people, sorry they're not my own creation but it gives you a sense of what I climbed and seen.

This is not me... but this is the mountain I just climbed

The hike upwards seemed to go on an on forever and felt almost like it was never going to end and the  when I thought I was almost there, more to walk.  Finally, after 3.5 hours of walking we made it to the summit of the mountain and how relieving it felt to lay down on the snow to rest at the top.  I was exhausted, even the guide looked tired but that could have been because I'd asked him many times, how long more until we reach the top...? The other people that were behind us earlier must of turned back because when we summited we had the whole mountain to ourselves.

Sadly, soon after summiting I discovered my camera wasn't working.  This was due to the batteries needing to be changed...Prior to me starting the climb, I had bought 2 sets of new batteries but neither of them would work, maybe it was the altitude? Peruvian quality at its best! I was devastated and felt quite upset, my first mountain and I have no pictures to show for it.  I go of my upset within moments and chose to be present to the wonderful view.  This is all I needed to do, remember to stay present and not react because I'm experiencing one of the most amazing things ever in my life - I'm at the top of a mountain in the Andes of Peru. 

Surrounding mountains of the Cordillera Blanca range

The panoramic views of all the surrounding mountains were spectacular and the sun was just rising in the distance.  All the magnificent colors in the morning sky.  What a way to start the day.... mountain top sunrise!!! 

Sunrise from the summit of Vallunaraju 

The glacier I hiked on to get to the summit

Huge crevasse in the glacier 

Santa Cruz Trek, Huaraz June 2012

The past four days I've been out in the Andes exploring and adventuring with a group of 6 friends and a dog.  It began on Tuesday when we all met up very early and traveled to the trail head of Santa Cruz to begin our exploration, camping and trekking adventure.  Santa Cruz is one of the most popular treks in the Huaraz area and I now know why it has a very good reputation! It's just a 4 day trek which is a nice length for people who don't want to take a guide because it's totally doable without one.  The amazing mountain views of the Cordillera Blanca range, waterfalls, rivers, beautiful flowers and trees along the trail were breath taking.  Each day we were in awe of the fantastic panoramic beauty of the Andes!

The gang, all except the dog... ready for the big 4 day hike 

Lucy 

Full backpacks with tents, camping stoves, sleeping bags, food, warm clothes and more to get us through the next days with full belly's, fresh drinking water and warm nights ahead.  We decided to not take a guide and carried all our own stuff which in some ways was nice to have the freedom to go at our own pace, but we also had to carry some weight which got somewhat challenging as we climbed to higher altitudes.  Some of the group were novices to the mountains which added some stress to the experience, no prior experience with altitude or camping made it a bit more difficult for myself and friend Allie as we were the only ones that with prior backpacking experience in the mountains.  Another issue was with one of the rented backpacks, was total rubbish and was not designed for mountaineering so the person couldn't carry a fair load of the weight; meaning the rest of us had to carry extra.  All in all it was fun once we got into the groove and people adjusted to a challenge of backpacking!

Day 1: It was as fairly mellow day as we just hiked to before the first camp so it was just about 4-5 hours of hiking.  The whole group was very excited about the upcoming trek and as we walked there was lots of joking, laughing and overall jolliness.  Later when we made camp, cooked a nice meal over the gas stove and had some hot drinks as we sat by a lovely camp fire talking.  We were all really excited to be out in the mountains and enjoying the great outdoors, so spirits were high with anticipation of the days ahead.  The stars were amazingly bright that night and how much I loved admiring the fabulous night sky.  Especially this time of year because it's winter now in Huaraz so there are little to no clouds with spectacular views of the stars.

      Allie checking the map...think we need to go that way!

Day 2: We left a little late in the morning time 11am, which set us back some for making the pass later on the same day.  It was definitely a more challenging day for all of us, one of group was sick due to the altitude and we were all getting fairly tired due to the uphill walking, weight of our packs and doing our best to push ahead to reach the pass before dark.  As we approached the area where the pass was supposed to be according to the map, we were all a bit puzzled as to where the pass actually was.  It just looked like a huge rock face with no access point through the mountains.  Anxiety began to rise in the group because it was getting late in the evening and the pass was apparently another hour away 4,750 meters, plus an additional 1.5 hours to get down the other side to the next camp site.  Allie and Alfonso, the only ones that had any energy left decided to hike up towards the top where they thought the pass may be and to see how long it would take without packs.  The rest of us just hung out, relaxed and took in the wonderful sites of the surrounding mountains until they returned.  In the meantime a donkey herder came along and said where the pass entrance was and how long it would take to reach the next point.  Our call was to stay put until early morning to get a good start with rest and full energy before we cross over the pass.  On A & A's return we made a group decision to hang tight until morning, set up camp and knowing exactly where the pass was we were more confident for the hike the next day.  After we set up the camp and got ready to cook some food and boil drinking water we discovered the gas stove wasn't working.  Panic set in because we were all a little hungry, but most of all cold at such high altitude (4,550 meters) and not being able to make hot drinks was a big problem.  Also the prospects of not being able to boil water for drinking the following day was a really serious issue because doing the pass is challenging enough and clean drinking water is a necessity! I was doing my best to relax and not worry about it but it was hard because in the mountains if something goes wrong there's no-one else around to help.  To switch off from the drama I watched the stars and observed 2 shooting stars which gave me hope and happiness that all things will work out.  We snacked on peanut butter and crackers and afterwards all hit our sleeping bags early, to wait until morning and see if we can get the stove to work then... nobody slept that night because at altitude it is much harder to sleep, especially at 4,550 meters!

Allie, Sole and myself - The Girls!

Day 3: Was definitely the hardest of all the days because we had no cooked food the night before, no sleep and had to wake get up very early in the freezing cold to make a head start on the pass.  The tent was frozen and had ice on it, so it was really cold getting out of the sleeping bag especially with the lack of inspiration because we wouldn't have a hot breakfast or drinks to warm us up.  The stove was still in bad shape and not working, so breakfast was granola and some cookies.  Off we went to do the pass 4,750 meters and it was actually one of the easier passes I've ever done and it was over quite quickly and soon we were heading down the other side of the mountains.  Downwards was definitely a bit quicker and easier!  Wow the mountain views keep getting better as we go further and further, also the morale of the group improved  after we completed the pass because the hardest part was over.

We finished the pass...now it's all downhill from here!

Along the path, going down the other side of the mountain we met some alpacas and how proud and powerful they look in their natural habitat.

One of 4 Alpacas we met along the way 

When we reached the next camp there was a local man there, he was the cook for a European group that were climbing one of the mountains there: Artesonraju peak.  He took a look at our stove the tube was blocked and fixed it right there and then.  He mentioned that a lot of tourists have issues with the stoves here and that he's had to help with the same problem before.  This was a boo boo on the tour operator we rented the camping gear from for not letting us know of this problem before we left the shop and it could have been pretty serious if we hadn't of had help from that kind man! We were all happy again that the stove was working and we had a yummy lunch of spaghetti, hot drinks and enjoyed a good rest afterwards.  Off we went with full bellies and more energy as the trail was much easier now we'd finished the pass and the downhill walk for hours.  The rest of the day the trail was excellent, with lots of open meadows and pretty scenery.  I stayed a bit behind the rest of the group, shooting pictures, enjoying listening to the sounds of the running water of the nearby river, the rustling of the leaves as the wind blew through the trees, birds singing their joyful songs as I walked peacefully through the mountains.  Being in the mountains is definitely one of my favorite places to be is in world! Surrounded by nature, the fresh smell of the earth, flowering blooms on the trees, the alpine air and surrounding peaks.

The kind man that fixed our stove

I'm taking a nap, Lucy by my side staying warm...shattered after our morning hike

Finally reaching the area where the campsite was at 5pm, it was more isolated and really serene by the river.  Everyone was bubbly and joyful for having made it before dark and setting up camp with the daylight.  We cooked a yummy meal of ramen noodles (the last of the food) and had some cookies for desert with milo.  It felt great to be on our last night too because the following day a nice hot shower, real hearty meal and good nights sleep were things to look forward to.

Our camp on the last night trekking the Santa Cruz trail

Lucy exhausted from our big day

Happiness 

Day 4: The final stretch to make it to the trail head and return to Huaraz, exhausted, fulfilled from the trek, ready for a hot shower and clean comfortable bed to sleep in were real motivators.  We made it to Cachapampa in very good time, where we ate a simple lunch of rice, egg, papa fritas (fries) and drank lemonade.  It tasted like an amazing feast because we'd been eating such basic food during our trek!
While we waited for the taxi to arrive to take us back to where we pick up the collectivo (mini bus) to Huaraz.  All feeling exhausted but thoroughly fulfilled from our adventures in the Andes.

The final push on Day 4

We made it Lucy and no injuries in the group - hooray!

It felt like being in Eden during my time in the Andes and how blessed I was to have experienced this with some amazing people.  The sharing, fun, laughter and playfulness as we done the Santa Cruz trek together.  Shared moments like these make my decision even easier.... this is where I want to live on a more full-time basis... Peru has everything I need and love which is why I'm coming back here to live later this year.  There is nowhere else I'd rather be! To have access to the Andes, all the beauty and  freedom to play in the mountains.  While still having access to the amazon jungle, desert, and pacific ocean (with good surfing) all within a days travel time of each other.

One of many waterfalls we seen 

Pretty wild flowers along the path

Mother and young foal, wild horses along the trail

Very similar to my last name :)

Amazon Adventures January 2012

After Christmas I left the lodge to explore the amazon jungle as that was my intention of going to Peru in the first place. Sad to be leaving my new friends in the Andes, I left Huaraz for an 8 hour bus journey to Lima.  Then caught a flight to Iquitos which is in the heart of the Amazon Jungle.  It was a fairly straightforward flight and I arrived in Iquitos about 2.5 hours later. On the way we done a small detour to Pucallpa.  One passenger almost got off the plane thinking we had arrived in Iquitos but the flight attendant mentioned that we were in Pucallpa.  This is how things are done here in Peru, communication isn't great, flights will take small detours to get the most efficiency for their money and stop at places along the way.  It's a good idea because it cuts down on the number of flights going to places and the amount of petrol being consumed.  It's even better when the attendants make it clear that we are doing a detour though otherwise like that woman other people may get off thinking their at the final destination! How I Love Peru and the funny little idiosyncrasies that occur hear sometimes make me laugh out loud!

Flying over the amazon jungle brought tears to my eyes, after all these years of dreaming about it I'm finally here.  The amount of lush green canopy, trees, winding rivers and tributaries made my heart expand to the size of a balloon full of love and joy to be looking down on one of the biggest ecosystems in the world.  Arriving in Iquitos I caught a funny looking motor-taxi to the city from the airport.  They are part motorcycle and part car, much like a rickshaw in India but different… noisy, crazy, as unstable as a motorbike but efficient on petrol.  On my way through the city of Iquitos some people waved at me like I was the prodigal daughter returning after being away for some years, it felt nice to know how open and friendly the people are.  Iquitos is the most densely populated city in Peru without any road access, the only way in is to fly or get a boat.  Soon the taxi driver found the hostel that one of my volunteer friends recommended and I settled in right away.  Casa Samantha is a nice, simple little hostel in Iquitos with a kitchen to cook your own food.  The owner is a very kind, loving and open hearted man who runs the hostel with his young son/grandson…not sure but the little boy is a real cutie and very professional in running the show :)  

Motor taxi

During my visit to Iquitos I read in a local paper that the Amazon Rainforest has just been added as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of The World (The Amazon spreads across South America; Brazil, Peru, Bolivia, Columbia, Ecuador, Guyana, Suriname and French Guiana).  That's twice Peru have been given the opportunity to share their wonders with the world; Machu Pichu being one of the older wonders (voted in 2007).

Iquitos is a crazy place, the amount of noise from the motor taxis zipping around like madmen beeping, hustle and bustle of jungle city life.  Due to these intense sensory experiences in my short time in there, I decided it was a bit too manic to spend New Years.  I decided to make an escape route and head up river to a small village where the other retreat center is called Janero Herrera. Catching the slow boat from Iquitos to Janero Herrera the following day which took 10 hours (fast boat only takes 4-5 hours).  I wanted to the experience of going along the amazon river, slinging my hammock on the deck along with many more peruvians and doing it the rustic way.  The slow boat is a cargo boat that brings supplies and passengers to each of the towns along the amazon river.  Known to be the cheapest way to travel in the jungle, it's not the safest of options but a real authentic experience and how most of the locals travel from place to place.  Some other travelers avoid this mode of transport for safety reasons and I can understand why, but my experience was filled with goodness.  What you put out comes back; generate love and trust and it returns 10 fold! I found a nice safe spot between a couple of families and they looked out for me during the 10 hours journey.  In exchange for my gratitude I taught two of them, one on each side of me, to play Sudoku.  It was really funny laying there in my hammock with both students either side asking questions with my broken spanish answering them and guiding through their first Sudoku experiences.  I would chuckle inside when I would observe each one thinking hard and concentrating on the puzzle I gave them.  This was a good move because not only did I make a difference in their lives by teaching them something new, they accepted me right away and I felt safe throughout the journey and as though they were my family. 

My hammock is the one with the carabiner and sling

During the night I stood on the deck and had a conversation in spanglish with a friendly lady from a town 3 hours past where I was going.  I offered her some dietary advice for her husband who suffers with ulcers.  She was very thankful and I promised myself I would learn spanish to be able to help more people with their health and nutritional problems here.  We looked at the moon and stars together conversing in a strange dialect that we both could kinda understand but with the help of the trusted dictionary I could expand the conversation in small ways.  At about 2.30am the boat was getting closer to Janero Herrera and my adopted family woke me up and were getting anxious for my arrival.  Walking me to the front of the boat, waiting until it moored at the pier.  Hugs and kisses to say farewell and off I went into the unknown not even knowing if there is a hostel there waiting for me to sleep in.  I caught a motor taxi and we drove for about 1 minute and we reached a hostel, being so late I had concerns that I would not be able to get a room but a sleepy old man met me at the door and led me to a room in the back.  I couldn't believe how straight forward it was to get a room at that ungodly hour but I was grateful to have a bed to sleep in.  Around 6-7am a loud generator behind my room went on and that was the end of my brief but restful sleep. It was New years eve and probably just the beginning of a long and restless day/night ahead.  This is Latin America where celebration, noise and disco music are their fortes - the louder the better! I  met with a German traveler who had just got back after being in the jungle with his guide for 2 months.  I met the guide: Jorge: AKA George of the Jungle...seriously that was his name LOL.  We'd go to the jungle for 1 week, my intension to learn some things about medicinal plants, trees, barks and vines in the jungle and giving me a little taster of what it's like to live in the Amazon.  We would go by canoe for 1 day into the jungle to stay in a very rustic camp there.  Meeting up later that day to get food supplies for the week, rubber boots because of the rainy season and made arrangements for a time to meet the following day to set off into the jungle.

Setting off by canoe into the Amazon

Jorge's teenage son & boat with supplies

Meeting very early the next morning Jorge and his son Jose Carlos got everything ready and we packed the canoe full of our supplies.  Filled with excitement and wonder off we went.  The canoe was powered with a motor (outboard engine, like the long tail boats in Thailand) attached and we went for about 5-6 hours along the river into the jungle, leaving behind all attachments to community life and venturing into the wild Amazon.   

Camu Camu fruit

As we were traveling down river to the place we would camp we passed some bushes with fruit on them.  Camu Camu having the second highest concentration of vitamin C of any known fruit in the world.  Its known for its healing properties from the common cold to arthritis.  Sour by taste but people here make a juice out of it by mixing a little sugar and water making it very delicious. 

Source: http://www.freshplaza.com/news_detail.asp?id=89848

My hammock with plastic tarp for rain protection Day 1 The camp was made up of two wooden frames that was the base for the plastic cover that was thrown over the top for shelter from the rain. Underneath the plastic cover was where my hammock hung and that was where I slept or rested in when wanting cover from the hoards of mosquitos. My guide looked at me strangely when I hung the hammock and he asked in spanglish if it was enough for me? I said "sure, this hammock is called Amazona and has a mosquito net already attached", how naive I was to the amazon jungle I thought I could sleep comfortably in that contraption.  Jorge must of been thinking "yeah right, you'll need more but it's up to you!" The first night I didn't get much sleep because the mosquitos were bussing around outside and biting me through the material underneath.  I bought the hammock in Rei in the U.S and the brand name is Amazona hammock but I can tell you that was the real test to see if it's Amazon fit and it wasn't enough.  It would be fine for small bugs and a little protection from mosquitos but definitely not enough for the Amazon jungle! Also during the same night I had a party, with ants being the guests of honor walking along the top of my hammock.  When I got up to go to go to the toilet, and got back into the hammock I had an invasion of the little buggers in my lovely cozy abode. It was a very long night indeed! The next day was extermination day, Jorge and his son rolled up some cloth and attached it to the top of a long stick and then poured gasoline on it and setting it on fire.  Putting it into the tree that my hammock was attached - smoking out the ants nest.  That wasn't all, he actually cut the small tree down to ensure the ants were gone and would not come back later in the evening.  It done the job for a while but being that we were in the jungle, the ants found a way back but there weren't as many as before.  Additional supplies were needed and we strung my hammock up inside a full fledged amazon mosquitos net and I felt like I was in a cocoon protected from any wildlife I wasn't comfortable sharing my hammock with. My camp armored with a proper mosquito net Day 2  A trees sap that is good for ulcers Each day after breakfast Jorge and I would walk in the jungle together. He would point out trees, plants and vines that were medicinal telling me their healing properties.  It was great to explore the jungle with an experienced guide and seeing the lush forest in its full splendor.  We drank water from a vine and it tasted really good.  There were so many butterflies, many of different sizes and colors; my favorite being the "Blue Morpho" (sadly too fast for me to get a picture of).  The tones of exotic birds and the full symphony of sounds in the jungle filled my senses with love and I felt right at home there - except for the stinking mosquitos! Always being on the lookout for other wildlife, the cougars, snakes, monkeys and poisonous spiders.  I didn't get to see most of those critters but I did get to see some monkeys which was cool.   Bark of the tree is good for infections Tree with medicinal properties Vine that has drinking water - yummy Exotic flower in the Amazon One of many butterflies I seen  Beautiful mushroom growing wild in the jungle One of the nights we took the canoe out to see if we could spot any nocturnal animals but we weren't fortunate enough, due to the height of the river it was impossible to see any alligators.  It was cool going out at night rowing the canoe, the peacefulness of the nighttime noises of the jungle, delicious night air filled the atmosphere with mystery and awe.  Even better because there were no mosquitos out on the water at night! Little butterfly friend visiting as Jorge fishes Jorge fishing for dinner Each day we would take the canoe down river and fish for dinner.  The first day we only caught piraña but instead of eating it for dinner we used it as bait.  The fishing tool was just a hook and line which is very primitive but effective most of the time.  Due to the rainy season and the river being higher it was harder to catch fish. On the fist day we only caught a piranha but instead of eating it for dinner we used it as bait.  The days we didn't catch anything we would eat just rice, yucca (a jungle vegetable) and eggs.  When we caught a fish it was a real delicious treat to have something different for dinner.  Simple food but tasty all the same, it's amazing how garlic, onion and cumin can make the most basic ingredients yummy.  On day 3 Jorge caught a big fish and we enjoyed a feast that evening.  The fish was cut into segments marinated in garlic, salt and some pepper and wrapped in banana leaves.  Placed on the homemade grill and cooked over the fire.  It was a really tasty meal, mealtime magic in the camp and made a super change from plain rice, yucca and the simplest of ingredients we'd been eating on days prior to the big catch! The Big Catch Making the grill to cook the fish over the fire Fish wrapped in banana leaf to cook Boiling water over the fire for rice, the canopy to shelter from the rain A Poem I wrote after I arrived in the jungle.... Mysterious Amazon Calls Me Mysteries of the jungle are calling me, adventurous life with a mission.  As I flew over the luscious amazon tears filled my eyes as my heart overflowed with love and joy.  I'm here, I'm home… Exactly as its supposed to be! This connection is old, many lives and stories told.  Waiting for the boat to take me deep into the jungle I go, to learn, share and grow.  As the seeds that were planted long ago are now ready to sew.  Stay present - free - courageously living the truth I was born to Be.  Butterfly friend I made while fishing one day Life in the jungle is primitive and hard work because you always have to be aware of your surroundings in case of wild animals, snakes, poisonous spiders or plants.  I really enjoyed my time there fishing for dinner, cooking on an open fire and living so simply.  It felt great to be in the jungle but the mosquitos were the most unpleasant thing for me to deal with and I'd been eaten alive in just the 4 days of being there and I was getting quite irritated.  Being it was the rainy season didn't help because the river is higher and there are many more mosquitos than normal. Which is A Lot already, so you can only just imagine how much more of a pain they were. I've lived in tropical places before with mosquitos but nothing like this! Apparently there are places in the amazon that don't have mosquitos at all and that is where I would like to visit some time. I still prefer the mountains, although I love the humidity of the jungle, the wildlife and the magical buzz with all the sounds.  The mountains have stolen my heart, peaceful, bug free and tranquil setting in the Andes. I decided it was time to return to the hill tribe I met and to do a retreat there in Andes without the unpleasant and distracting bugs of the amazon.