Climbing my 1st Mountain, Vallunaraju, Huaraz June 2012

Sunrise at Vallunaraju part of the Cordillera Blanca - I didn't take this!

Soon after my return from the Santa Cruz trek I decided it was time to climb my first mountain.  After dreaming about this endeavor for many years, I felt ready and inspired by being in Andes to experience the true alpine rush of summiting a mountain! Vallunaraju in the Cordillera Blanca mountain range.

The adventure began in Huaraz at the agency where I hired a guide and the gear I would need for the 2 day trip.  I hired a private guide because none of my friends here wanted to do this mountain a second time round and hiring a guide is imperative when climbing a mountain alone, but how I wish I could have shared the experience with someone I care about or love.  Renting sleeping bag, stove for cooking, crampons (sharp teethed bits that attach to hiking boots making it possible to hike on the glacier), ice axe, and a rope that would keep me attached to the guide (in case of falls or crevices) and we were ready to go.

Laguna at the beginning of our trek up into the valley

The valley where we hiked up to the moraine camp

Leaving very early in the morning by taxi to the trail head we began our long and tiring hike up the valley to the moraine camp.  The packs were really heavy because of the equipment we were carrying but we took it very slowly and steadily.  The slope up the side of the valley was steep and challenging, especially because of the altitude, however with some rests along the way we made it in about 2 hours.  A couple of climbers had already arrived at the moraine camp and following right behind us was a large group of tourists about to arrive making camp to ascent the mountain the following morning.  Edwin (my guide) and I decided it would be better to hike an additional 30 mins further up towards the glacier because it would give us a better head start for the morning ascent.  This was a good idea because I'm not a huge fan of lots of tourists and the idea of summiting with a group of strangers didn't inspire me one bit.  We made the camp on a huge rock slab, it was very hard and cold underneath but luckily I had a good inflatable ground mat to protect my kidneys from the glacial chill.  We were only meters away from the glacier, it was freezing cold and hot drinks and food were greatly appreciated that evening.  The altitude was 5,000 meters or thereabouts (can never get a clear answer from a local...even a guide LOL) which made it impossible to sleep.  Being so cold and desperate to sleep I just stayed in my sleeping bag, patiently waiting for 1:00am for when the alarm would go off and we would get ready to begin the slow hike up the mountain to the summit for sunrise.

Camping on a slab of granite at the glacier

The glacier close by to where we camped

View of Huaraz from the camp

After hitting the snooze button a couple of times, it was 1:30am and time to get up and at it.  Not feeling very hungry because of how early it was, I just drank a cup of coffee with milo and ate some mouthfuls of chaufa (fried rice with chicken).  I knew I would need the energy for the upcoming 4 hour climb to the summit but it turned my stomach to force food into myself so I abandoned the idea of eating because I have to! Off we went to the beginning of the glacier and there were 3 people already there before we arrived.  I was a tad disappointed because I'd hoped we'd be the first to start, my ego got plugged in.  A French couple with their guide and it was also their first time climbing a mountain.  Neither of the couple had a headlamp which we thought was a bit strange and off they went in front of us, the guide leading their way.  As we walked Edwin and I caught up with them and overtook them as they were moving much slower than us.  We continued along in the dark with the only light ahead was what the flashlight threw on the glistening snow.  The stars were amazing, so bright and twinkling like diamonds in the huge black sky.  The chill in the air and the wind howling through the hood of my jacket was intense.  Most of the glacier was covered in a nice fresh powdery snow from the night before and was soft under the crampons.  Some parts of the glacier were more steep than others and I had to use the ice axe on the more technical parts and also how I placed the crampons into the ice.  It was quite challenging at times but most of the accent was quite mellow and just walking with some gradient.  I was getting quite tired along the way and feeling really nauseous from the altitude which was very unusual because I'm usually good with altitude.  Stopping to rest along the way, I actually vomited but it helped me to feel much better (better out than in).  Must have been from the instant coffee and milo, what a gross way to start the day!


The pictures I've attached to this post were not taken by me but other people, sorry they're not my own creation but it gives you a sense of what I climbed and seen.

This is not me... but this is the mountain I just climbed

The hike upwards seemed to go on an on forever and felt almost like it was never going to end and the  when I thought I was almost there, more to walk.  Finally, after 3.5 hours of walking we made it to the summit of the mountain and how relieving it felt to lay down on the snow to rest at the top.  I was exhausted, even the guide looked tired but that could have been because I'd asked him many times, how long more until we reach the top...? The other people that were behind us earlier must of turned back because when we summited we had the whole mountain to ourselves.

Sadly, soon after summiting I discovered my camera wasn't working.  This was due to the batteries needing to be changed...Prior to me starting the climb, I had bought 2 sets of new batteries but neither of them would work, maybe it was the altitude? Peruvian quality at its best! I was devastated and felt quite upset, my first mountain and I have no pictures to show for it.  I go of my upset within moments and chose to be present to the wonderful view.  This is all I needed to do, remember to stay present and not react because I'm experiencing one of the most amazing things ever in my life - I'm at the top of a mountain in the Andes of Peru. 

Surrounding mountains of the Cordillera Blanca range

The panoramic views of all the surrounding mountains were spectacular and the sun was just rising in the distance.  All the magnificent colors in the morning sky.  What a way to start the day.... mountain top sunrise!!! 

Sunrise from the summit of Vallunaraju 

The glacier I hiked on to get to the summit

Huge crevasse in the glacier